Sunday 22 March 2020
Bondi Junction Medical Practice
As strange as it was for me to visit a GP on a Sunday morning, it appeared to be perfectly normal to everyone else there.
At first I thought that surgeries were working overtime due to the pandemic but when I arrived at the Bondi Junction Medical Practice at 9:00 am that morning, I realised that 7 day openings were pretty standard practice in Australia.
I spent rather a long time in a waiting room with several other people which did concern me a little especially as the children in particular, were not so good at the two metre social distancing rule.
One incident was particularly worrying when a young man with a cough came in to ask for a Covid test; the middle aged receptionist handed him a mask immediately and directed him outside to the back of the surgery where I believe he was able to have one there and then.
At that time I assumed that covid tests would be readily available everywhere for anyone who wanted one; that was clearly the obvious way to find out who had the illness and consequently who should isolate and trace their recent contacts so they too could be tested.
It was only when we returned home that we realised that accessing covid tests in the UK was certainly not as easy as we had previously thought.
After a 45 minute wait surrounded by quite a few coughing and spluttering people I finally saw a Dr Davis.
After a back scan, an X-ray and an examination, (all done in the surgery), he wrote me a prescription for strong painkillers and muscle relaxant medication so I would be better able to cope with the journey.
He explained that if we were not in the grips of a pandemic, he would advise not embarking on such a long journey at that time but as we had no choice but to fly back before borders closed he accepted that it had to be done and that the meds hopefully would help.
He also offered to add other regular medication I took to the prescription at no extra charge (including vitamin D which he said could help strengthen our immune systems); he felt it might be difficult accessing GP appointments in the UK during lockdown especially with everything that was happening there at the time and he was right.
I often thought of him during those first few lockdown months when I realised that thanks to him I did not need to worry about my repeat prescriptions.
Before leaving he also handed me a Covid information leaflet with advice on how to avoid infection as much as possible.
He explained that this information was particularly important to tourists in our position as we would almost certainly encounter people with the virus at some point on our travels..
The leaflet focused on hand washing, sanitising, wearing double masks in enclosed areas, maintaining the 2 metre distance rule and avoiding touching hair and face when in public places; door handles, bannisters, supermarket trollies, keys, money and other everyday items we tend to touch without thinking were all potential hazards.
I became very conscious at that time of how difficult it is to avoid touching ones face; you have to consciously remind yourself all the time to not do so and even then it is virtually impossible.
The cost of all this was approximately £60, exactly what my husband had paid in New Zealand for his mini surgical procedure.
There is a reciprocal medical arrangement between the UK and Australia so I could have claimed it back on Medicare but since we were leaving the following day and as lockdown rendered it impossible to speak to anyone at any of the Medicare centres I contacted at the time, I ended up not bothering.
When I left with my prescription I immediately went to the chemist nearby where it was all processed relatively quickly which was good as it was rather more crowded than we were comfortable with; people were mainly trying to stock up on masks, gloves and sanitizer.
Fortunately we made our purchases of those items in Canberra which we were still using sparingly so we would have them for our journey home and during lockdown in the UK (we still have some of it now over a year later).
Both the medical practice and the pharmacy appeared to be part of the Westfield group so once all had been done we popped into Cole's to pick up some fresh fruit for brunch.
We couldn't believe how bare it all was.
There were fewer people than there had been when we went before which didn't surprise us as everything had been bought; so those shelves were well and truly empty.
We had invited our North Sydney friends over for a pre-birthday tea later that day as they would both be having big birthdays within the following few weeks and would not be able to celebrate them with friends or family at the time, so we all thought it would be good to mark the occasions in our Bondi Junction apartment before we left.
Strangely enough the patisserie counter at Cole's was well stocked, unlike other more essential areas, so we managed to pick up a few delicious looking pastries and some savoury items as well.
We then returned home to find that I had received another email from Emirates.
Upgrade Offer on Emirates Flight from Dubai to London
Opening emails from airlines was a stressful business at that time.
We were always afraid that our flight would be cancelled and that we would need to change our plans yet again.
We had become quite adept at just 'going with the flow' and not having any plans at all anymore, but it was still a little disconcerting when news of forced changes first reached us.
That particular email was just another invitation to upgrade our flight to business class; this time it was for the long flight from Dubai to London.
We had already decided that we would try and manage in Economy for that final stretch should the opportunity to upgrade arise but following my visit to the doctor, I felt that the upgrade should be selected for the sake of my back if nothing else.
As our insurers had agreed to cover the cost of the flights and the dispatch of our luggage, we didn't expect them to cover the cost of the upgrades as well but I called the chap who had contacted us in Belmont South just to give him an update on our situation and he explained that as we had booked ourselves into business class on our cancelled Vietnam Air flight, our insurance should cover the business upgrade costs as they were extremely reasonable, unlike the £15,000 they were being offered at when we first booked our flights.
He appeared to be aware of the Emirates flight cancellations that coming week and he was very happy to encourage us to accept the upgrades on those flights which appeared to be one of just two not cancelled that week; he explained that by accepting the upgrades other stranded British tourists could be offered seats as well.
We wondered at the time whether this person was indeed, the spokesperson of the underwriters of several travel insurance providers and as such had a vested interest in repatriating as many people back to the UK as possible.
I mentioned my visit to the doctor and my back pain following my fall the previous Sunday.
He expressed concern and was surprised that I hadn't mentioned it before; I explained that compared to the predicament we found ourselves in earlier that week, my back pain felt relatively insignificant by comparison.
It transpired, however, that as I had declared my damaged discs on my form when I first applied for cover, on those grounds alone I would be entitled to the upgrade to business as those seats could recline and therefore prevent my having to sit in the same position for over 20 hours in two days, but claiming on those grounds wouldn't be necessary as he had already approved both our upgrades on the basis that we would have travelled back on business class anyway on our original return flight..
Obviously we would need to pay for the upgrades up-front and claim them back later with everything else we would be claiming for, which was not as easy as we thought it would be at the time, but that was a problem for a later date.
After accepting and paying for our new upgrades, we decided to go out and say our final goodbyes to our beloved Sydney.
ARRIVEDERCI SYDNEY
Our final drive to several of our favourite haunts in that spectacular city which since 27 December 2019 we had been able to call home, was one of the most emotional experiences of our lives.
The realisation of the fact that just 24 hours later we would be setting off for the airport to return to the UK suddenly felt real and irreversible.
We had grown accustomed to a sort of travel Limbo since mid February when our return trip to the UK via SE Asia was changed from 12 to 20 March until borders closed and it was cancelled altogether.
Obviously, having lost our SE Asia holiday with friends in KL, Singapore and Vietnam and having no return flight certainty for almost the entire final month of our stay was less than ideal.
But what we hadn't appreciated up until that point, is that on a subconscious level, not knowing exactly when we would leave New Zealand then Australia did create an attachment to our nomadic Southern Hemisphere lifestyle which we were suddenly and rather abruptly having to completely sever.
When we were still in New Zealand we were so impressed with their immediate response to social distancing guidelines that we did wonder whether we should book an extended stay in remote Invercargill or take up my friend's offer to stay with her daughter in Christchurch.
But having made it back to Australia, we had then been forced to seriously consider more permanent rental options there when the covid situation took a turn for the worse and our return flights to the UK were all cancelled.
We had even gone as far as contacting potential landlords in Canberra and Belmont South about long stay accommodation which we eventually set up in Belmont South just in case we would not be able to return home at all.
We would certainly not have been able to pay the extortionately inflated ticket prices that some airlines were charging at that time.
Had our Insurance parent company not made contact when it did, chances are that we would be returning to Belmont South the following morning rather than the to the UK
Bondi Beach
We started our farewell pilgrimage at Bondi Beach.
We had been through a lot in Bondi.
It was in Bondi that we first experienced one of our major schedule changes when our house sit in Goulburn was cancelled due to raging wild fires.
As a result we ended up homeless after our Newtown stay came to an end and all we could find within our price range as a last minute rental in the height of Australia's summer was that very basic studio in Bondi Beach.
We found it so ghastly that notwithstanding the smoke filled air all over the city at that time, we spent every waking moment of our time there out of the house.
We got to know Sydney very well because of it and it was during that time that the city started to feel like home.
We ended up parking our car not too far from that awful yet providential rental flat that Sunday morning then we walked to our favourite Bondi café, just as we used to when we were staying there, and enjoyed one final bran muffin and egg and bacon roll.
It was delicious as it always was but also quite sad, not just because we were leaving but because we could see preparations being made for Australia's full lockdown which would commence the following morning.
I'm sure we were not alone in wondering what the future held for us all as we watched staff stack chairs, remove menu boards from the wall and pack crockery and cutlery into a large chest which was part of the window seat in the eating area of the café.
When we finished we thanked our server and the kitchen staff, who were all worried about their jobs and how they would support themselves during lockdown, then with a heavy heart we headed down towards the beach.
We were looking forward to our final Bondi beach walk; we thought that the feel of soft white sand with the sound of waves in the background would lift our spirits and change our moods, so when we arrived and found the beach closed to the public, we couldn't believe it.
Bondi Beach had been a Covid hot spot since Tom Hank's visit earlier that month and probably even before that.
It appeared that warning after warning had been issued to Bondi's sun worshippers and surfers every day for weeks leading up to that point, about the need to maintain social distancing and avoid overcrowding, but they had fallen on deaf ears so Waverley Council saw no other option but to close the beach completely.
It was desperately sad for us and so many others there with us that we couldn't have one final walk and paddle on that beach.
We stood at that fateful sign for a while then we walked up towards the Coogee cliff walk and enjoyed our usual panoramic views which were actually rather strange without anyone on the beach.
We spotted a few cheeky surfers with surf boards under their arms, climbing over the barriers, dodging police officers on patrol and running over the sand to the sea.
I expect a hefty fine awaited them on their return, though they may not have minded that considering it would be their last opportunity to surf there for many months.
We walked as far as the cemetery where we noticed a sign further down preventing walkers from going any further, so at that point we turned back and returned to our car.
The world was changing before our very eyes; if there was anything else we needed to do or see or buy this was the day to do it; life as we knew it would be transformed beyond all recognition in just a few hours time and no one had any idea how long any of it would last.
Luna Park
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Luna_Park_Sydney
We had not yet been to Sydney's Milson's Point which is where the Luna Park fairground is located.
We had been told that the views of Sydney from there were spectacular so that is where we decided to drive after we left Bondi.
In its Wikipedia entry Luna Park is described as "a heritage-listed amusement park located at 1 Olympic Drive in the harbourside suburb of Milsons Point on the northern shore of Sydney Harbour".
"The amusement park is owned by the Luna Park Reserve Trust, an agency of the Government of New South Wales, and was added to the New South Wales State Heritage Register on 5 March 2010".
As a child I was taken to the Luna Park amusement park in Rome which I thoroughly enjoyed so I was interested in seeing how its Australian namesake compared.
As expected this was a much larger operation with a far greater choice of rides and activities compared to the Luna Park in Rome from the 1960s; of course I do not know what it is like now nor if it is even still there as I have not been back there since.
What is particularly interesting re the Sydney Luna Park Sydney is that it "has been used as a filming location for sections of several works of film and television".
"In 1959, the entire park was used for Leslie Norman's film adaptation of Summer of the Seventeenth Doll, based on the play by Ray Lawler".
"Also, during that decade, sequences were filmed for the Six O'Clock Rock and Skippy the Bush Kangaroo television series", the latter being one of my favourite children's programmes from the early 60s.
"In 1976, characters from the television soap opera Number 96, namely Dorrie and Herbert Evans, Flo Patterson and junior Pat McDonald. Ron Shand, (Bunney Brooke) and Kurt Jenson visited the park, with scenes of them in Coney Island, eating fairy floss, and riding on the Big Dipper and the Topsy-Turvy House".
It appears that "the footage has been preserved and was featured in Number 96: And They Said It Wouldn't Last, a bonus feature on the DVD release of the feature film version of the show"
"Luna Park also appeared in two episodes of the 1989 programme Betty's Bunch".
"Following its 1996 closure, Luna Park (in particular the Big Dipper) was used for a section of Our Lips Are Sealed starring Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen."
It also featured in "the 'memory sequences' in the Farscape episode "Infinite Possibilities Part I: Daedalus Demands" and the two-part '100th episode' of JAG, "Boomerang".
"Selected scenes for the Bollywood film Dil Chahta Hai were filmed there at various points between the 1996 closure and the 2001 removal of the Big Dipper".
"During this time, the documentary Spirits of the Carnival - The Quest for Fun was filmed there about the history of amusement parks named 'Luna Park' in general, and Luna Park Sydney specifically, though I do wonder whether the Luna Park in Rome was alluded to at all in that.
"Following Luna Park's reopening in 2004, material was filmed in the park's Rotor for the 2006 film Candy".
"Luna Park was also featured in a few episodes for the Australian TV series Dance Academy and it was mentioned in the song "Upstairs In My House" by the Australian band Men At Work on their 1983 album "Cargo".
"It is also featured in Seventeen's Healing music video which was released on 16 October 2016.
It was filmed when they went to Australia for their fan meeting (Shining Diamonds: Asia Pacific Tour) in both Melbourne and Sydney.
"Lady Leshurr filmed her music video for "On My Way" at Luna Park and the auditions for season 9 of Australia's Got Talent were filmed in the Big Top building, Luna Park, with the judges being seen on the rides at the beginnings of some episodes".
"In March 2021, (exactly a year after we visited the area). an emotionally charged 3 part documentary aired on ABC TV and ABC iView called "EXPOSED: The Ghost Train Fire", which killed six children and one adult in 1979 and which resulted in the closure and demolition of the original fair ground; the programme showed emotive interviews of survivors and families of those perished in the fire, employees of Luna Park and other people exposed to the incident".
Spectacular Sydney from Milson's Point
But for us on that emotionally charged final day of what had been so much more than just a holiday, it was the overwhelmingly beautiful views of Sydney Harbour from Milson's Point that totally took our breath away.
As I looked up at the sweeping expanse of the Harbour Bridge towering above us with the Opera House sparkling in the sunshine like the beacon that it was, I could not help but shed a tear.
It would not be the last time that I would find myself overcome with emotion during the challenging year ahead but it was certainly the first.
On that afternoon we mourned the loss of a newly discovered land which we felt we were leaving just as we were becoming properly acquainted with it.
Leaving Australia or New Zealand is not like leaving France, Italy or even the US.
One doesn't pop over to Sydney for a mini break or a Christmas shopping spree.
No, this farewell felt permanent and that is what hurt the most.
Would we ever make it back there?
Would we ever travel anywhere again?
How long would lockdown last?
Would we survive COVID 19?
These are the questions we were asking ourselves at that time and we were certainly not alone in wanting answers that no one could give.
We had experienced a crucial moment in our shared earth's history in those lands: we had lived through terrifying wildfires, horrific flood damage in New Zealand and finally the start of a world pandemic.
We had changed plan after plan after plan until we stopped planning anything at all.
Flights were altered then cancelled as were accommodation bookings and to the very last we had absolutely no idea where we would be staying from week to week or even which hemisphere we would be locking down in.
So this was a farewell like no other.
We were leaving a land we had established a bond with in a way which could have never happened in 'normal circumstances'.
But we were also leaving behind one era and entering another.
That moment for us signalled the end of international freedom and the start of a much smaller, more restricted lifestyle, though exactly how small it would actually become could not even be imagined at that point.
Whether this new era we were about to enter would be permanent or not is a question that remains unanswered even now in June 2021.
Sydney Harbour
Our final port of call before returning home to meet our North Sydney friends, was of course, Sydney Harbour.
This was where our daughter took us just hours after our arrival in Sydney on 27 December 2019.
Finding ourselves at the Opera Bar on that momentous day with the Harbour Bridge on one side and the Opera House on the other still rates as the single most incredulous moment of our entire trip.
To suddenly find yourself in the presence of monuments and scenery which for an entire lifetime had been almost mythical symbols of a far off land on the other side of the world, was beyond extraordinary.
But our final trip there on 22 March 2020 was no less remarkable.
On 27 December we had seen it teeming with people from all over the world all enjoying the glorious Australian summer sunshine in one of its most iconic locations.
Many, like us, were belatedly celebrating Christmas with their families, others were delighting in al fresco drinks with friends, tourists from the cruise liners docked in the harbour were on whistle stop tours of the city, opera enthusiasts would have been enjoying pre-theatre meals in one of the many restaurants and bars in and around the Opera House.
It was a cacophony of activity such as I had never seen before in late December.
It was our first experience of a Southern Hemisphere summer and it was truly wonderful.
But on 22 March, on our final pilgrimage to Sydney's magical harbourside, we had a different but no less memorable experience of what that area had to offer.
On that occasion it was deserted.
There were slightly more people in the opera bars than there were a few days earlier but that is probably because all the others apart from Buckley's had already closed.
It was everyone's final day of freedom; as we walked around the Opera House for one last time, we pondered on that.
We talked about how life would be for us at home back in the UK.
I thought about my cancelled trip to Italy in April with my friend and her daughter and wondered whether all our other 2020 plans would also be cancelled.
We also wondered when we would be able to see our daughters again and whether it would all be sorted by the time our younger daughter was due to be married in early September 2020.
It was the first time that we even considered the fact that this may be a long term issue which could take months or even years to resolve.
The fact that the whole world was affected by it rendered the latter more likely than the former, but we didn't want to waste our final hour in Sydney Harbour dwelling on that.
So we stored that thought at the back of our minds and made our way to Buckley's for an ice cold beer and a packet of crisps.
The Harbour Bridge Climb
https://www.bridgeclimb.com/climbs-prices/ultimate
As we sat at Buckley's enjoying our final cold beer in Sydney's magical autumn sunlight, I looked over at the arch of the Harbour Bridge and thought of our friend who had spent three weeks travelling with us from late January to mid February.
When she returned to Sydney after her trip to Casino in Queensland, she treated herself to the Harbour Bridge Climb.
She had thought about it when we were all in Sydney together in late February but as the weather was less than ideal at that time she decided against it.
She didn't really plan to do it at all on her return to Sydney but as the weather was perfect on both her Sydney stopover days, prior to flying home and she had not planned anything else she took the bull by the horns and booked it.
It was, of course, incredible.
Not for the faint hearted I think and certainly not for vertigo sufferers like my husband who couldn't even manage a walk across the bridge but if you are fit, ok with heights and fancy doing something a little different then this is definitely the tour for you (providing holidays in Australia will be possible again at some point).
The Bridge Climb website describes their Ultimate Climb, as selected by our friend, in the following way:
"The iconic Sydney Harbour Bridge is one of the world’s longest steel-arch bridges, spanning an impressive 500 metres and standing proud above the sparkling Sydney Harbour".
"For many years, BridgeClimbers have scaled the South-side of the Bridge only to reach that jaw-dropping Summit moment…until now".
"Going where no Climb has gone before, the Ultimate Climb is the most adventurous climb experience in BridgeClimb’s history, and we don’t say that lightly".
"The first of its kind allowing climbers to conquer the entire breadth of the legendary “Coathanger” from South to North, and back again".
"Climbers can witness the best views of Sydney from all angles, 134 metres above the sparkling Harbour, as well as earn official bragging rights of conquering the full scale of the globally famous icon".
"BridgeClimb Ultimate promises an extraordinary experience for the adventurous first-time climber, and a sense of achievement for seasoned BridgeClimbers looking to take it to the next level and immerse in an entirely new perspective of the Bridge".
"So, are you ultimately up for it?"
"Explore and get up close and personal with the nation’s most celebrated icon on the ultimate BridgeClimb experience - don't miss out".
"Ultimate tip: This is the most adventurous Climb experience yet so we recommend being of full fitness to complete this journey".
For Health and Safety reasons, you cannot stop and take photos on this walk but the official photos our friend had taken of her from the summit of that bridge are totally awesome.
If we do make it back to Australia again one day I think I will leave my husband at Buckley's and definitely book myself onto the Sydney Harbour bridge climb.
Party Time in Bondi Junction.
Leaving Sydney Harbour for the last time that evening was an experience like no other.
We always felt a little sad when we left an area we had visited, especially if we had established a particular attachment to it, but this departure was on a completely different level.
Whether it was the impending doom and gloom of lockdown which would be dominating our lives from that moment onwards or whether we were just genuinely sad at the prospect of leaving that city, that country, that hemisphere, not knowing if we would ever be able to return, we did not know.
I expect it was a combination of them all.
Whatever the reason, our walk back to the car and our drive back to Bondi must rate as the saddest moment of our entire voyage.
At least we had our soirée with our North Sydney friends to look forward to so that cheered us up a little.
They arrived punctually at 7:30 pm which was excellent.
We showed them into our courtyard and opened our last bottle of McGuigan sparkling served with left over fresh food which we managed to construct into creative and unusual canapés.
It was whilst sitting in our courtyard enjoying our sparkling wine, canapés and a cup of tea that we noticed quite a ruckus coming from the flat across the road from us.
At first we thought it was some sort of altercation between neighbours but when we spotted the balcony full of young people and heard music playing in the background we realised they were having a party.
It should be noted that although the New South Wales lockdown didn't officially begin until midnight that day, social distancing guidelines had been in place for several weeks by then.
These guidelines certainly did not allow for large groups of people to gather in one small apartment for parties of that kind.
Our friend, who taught EFL to international undergraduates totally sympathised with youngsters being asked to socially distance at a time of their lives when they should be living a full university experience.
As time went on we all started to appreciate the detrimental effects that these lockdowns had on many 18 to 29 year olds all over the world but she was the first person I spoke to, who argued in their favour on this.
It is very easy to get angry at people not following rules, breaking lockdown and disrespecting social distancing guidelines but when you are a first year university student living away from home in a new city where your only connections are your fellow students, lecturers and flatmates, to have that suddenly and abruptly taken away from you is potentially damaging to personal development and mental health.
She pointed out that although they realised that they could face hefty fines and police sanctions, those youngsters probably calculated that it would be worth the risk as the following day the country would be in full lockdown and this could well be their last social interaction for the foreseeable future.
But stopping the spread of Covid was ultimately the main aim of these lockdowns everywhere and articles printed in the media later that month highlighted the fact that university students were one of the main groups guilty of spreading the virus in those early days when parties and mass gatherings such as these took place regularly in University towns and cities all over the world.
Whether we felt we would be more at risk out in the courtyard or whether the noise made it difficult for us to communicate at all whilst sitting out there, we decided to move inside, shut our sliding doors and switch on the air conditioning.
We were, after all, celebrating two big birthdays so our collective ages had to be considered as well.
Some of those youngsters partying on that balcony, may well have had the virus already and would have spread it to others without even realising it but even then it was known that young people were more likely to survive the illness than anyone aged 50 or over so that was definitely a consideration for us when we made any decisions at all at that volatile time.
What we hadn't thought about at all that day was that it was Mother's Day in the UK.
We were reminded by our daughters calling us almost in quick succession soon after we moved inside.
Our friend's younger daughter who lives in Cambridge called her first then less than five minutes later our younger daughter called us from Bristol to wish me a Happy Mother's Day.
Of course it was mid morning for them which is why they called when they did but it was lovely to hear from them both.
We marked the occasion with a bottle of Prosecco which they had brought for us, after all we didn't know when we would be able to celebrate anything again with anyone so we drank that, ate the excellent pastries we had bought at Coles that morning and even had a few chocolates from our Hunter Valley collection.
It was a lovely evening spent with very good friends which was the perfect finale to what had been one of the most extraordinary travel experiences of our lives.
We would definitely miss them but at that point we thought we would see them in August that same year; we could never have imagined then that foreign travel (especially for Australia), would still be compromised over a year later.
It is now June 2021 and our friends have not seen their younger daughter or elderly father since summer 2019.
We hope they will be able to come to our elder daughter's wedding in 2022 and spend time with their families and all of us then 🤞
Check-in Completed
Gatwick Hire Car booked
Our friends left at around 10:30 pm; it had been a lovely evening and as it was the last time we socialised with anyone else properly in many months, we thought of it often during lockdown.
Prior to our friends' departure we handed them two large bags of clothes and shoes to take to the op shops of their choice.
We also gave them a box of perishables which included fresh fruit, vegetables, yogurt, milk, dips, marmalade, bread and a few other tit bits which we couldn't fit into our small bags and take back with us on the plane.
We spent about an hour after that tidying the flat and sorting out hand luggage for the flights so we would have ready access to everything we might need for the 27 hour journey and airport stops before getting home on Tuesday morning.
After everything had been done to our complete satisfaction, we checked in online for both flights (at least we assumed it was both flights as we were only able to check in from Sydney not from Dubai).
We then checked our email inbox and discovered a brief message from our daughter claiming they had finally arrived back in the UK after quite a long delay in Doha; they had started their two week quarantine period at our daughter's partner's parental home which she said felt very strange indeed after all the travelling they had done.
We also contacted our house sitter to explain that as we would be travelling in two planes with over 600 fellow passengers in each one, we would make alternative arrangements to get ourselves back from the airport rather than ask him to pick us up as originally planned.
He would be transferring to his 73 year old mother's home soon so it was particularly important for him to not interact with us at all on our return, just in case....
We had thought about this for a while and we decided to wait unti we were as sure as we could be that our flights wouldn't be cancelled, then just before going to bed that evening we booked a small hire car from Gatwick airport for 24 hours on arrival so we could avoid public transport and taxis and drive ourselves home instead.
Once that had been done, we went back out to our courtyard with the very small amount of Prosecco left in the bottle gifted to us from our friends and we shared one last drink together in beautiful Australia.
We tried to catch a final glimpse of the Southern Hemisphere stars in the cloudless sky above us but the bright Bondi Junction street lights rendered that impossible.
We did, however spot several bright lanterns on the party balcony across the road from us which still appeared to be going strong with music booming out seemingly louder than ever; it all appeared to have spilled out onto several other balconies as well.
There was certainly no social distancing being adhered to there.
A group of youngsters from the second balcony spotted us when our very bright courtyard lights suddenly came on automatically and shone down on us like spotlights on a stage.
They raised a glass to us in unison when they saw us, we responded accordingly then went back inside soon after as we were feeling self conscious under those bright lights which we didn't know how to switch off.
Our final day in Australia had been as wonderful and as emotional as we always thought it would be.
In fact apart from a few hiccups here and there since our arrival, we had had the most extraordinary Antipodean Voyage, very different from what we had originally planned obviously but still absolutely wonderful in spite of FIRE, FLOOD and PESTILENCE
TRAVELS WITH COVID
Monday 23 March 2020
'Total Eclipse of the Heart'
We couldn't believe on waking that morning that we would be leaving Australia later that day.
It didn't feel like it was the end of our adventure; how could it end like that? So abruptly and in such a strange way. We both felt as if we had so much more to see, so many more places to explore and so much more to do but when we went out to our courtyard with our morning coffees, we caught our first glimpse of the deserted, isolated streets of lockdown.
The usual buzz and busyness we had associated with Bondi Junction since early January, appeared to have vanished seemingly overnight.
The roads were empty, there were very few cars and no one at all was out and about.
It was clear then that we would not be seeing or exploring anything anywhere for a very long time.
Our check out time had been extended to 11:00 am which was perfect for us as our flight was at 2:30 pm which meant we needed to arrive at the airport by 12:30 pm.
This gave us 1.5 hours to drive there which we did not need so we decided to have a final tour of Bondi Beach and other areas we had visited over the course of the previous few days and maybe one last walk before having to sit in planes and airports for the following two days.
The Bondi Beach area was completely deserted that morning apart from a few policemen stopping people from parking and seemingly questioning anyone out and about.
All cafés, restaurants and shops were closed apart from the little pharmacy we had been to on several occasions in the past, and the beach and grass picnic areas had barriers preventing people from accessing them.
It was such an unwelcoming experience that we decided to abandon our other 'scenic' drives and head straight to the airport.
But as luck would have it we did take a wrong turn at some point and ended up having to drive over the Harbour Bridge anyway for one last time and catch one final glimpse of the Opera House, Luna Park and Kirribilli - definitely an unexpected bonus.
As we turned to approach the bridge that morning Bonnie Tyler was singing Total Eclipse of the Heart on the radio and that song combined with that drive in that magical area of that extraordinary city was almost too much to bear.
By the time we reached the airport I was a quivering, emotional wreck.
Fortunately it didn't take us long to drive there that day as traffic was pretty light compared to other occasions when we had taken the bus from or to Mascot Station and got stuck in traffic at some point along the journey each time.
We dropped off our car in an isolated hire car parking area where keys had to be posted into a box rather than handed to a human being, much like our Omega car drop off at Auckland Airport though the Sydney one was clearly signposted so the experience was considerably less stressful.
We then checked the car thoroughly, took out our bags and made our way to the international terminal.
Ghost Town - International Terminal
Our airport experience that morning was like no other we had ever lived through anywhere.
We had witnessed airport self isolation when we left Auckland just before New Zealand's borders closed, but though social distancing was managed very well there, Auckland airport was full as so many people were trying to fly home or fly into Auckland from elsewhere.
But on that lockdown afternoon in Sydney on 23 March 2020, the international terminal was absolutely isolated.
We were aware that ours was the only Emirates flight anywhere that had not been cancelled that day, but when we caught sight of the departures board we could see that in actual fact most of the flights due to take off that day from Sydney had also been cancelled.
I suppose if countries were in lockdown and / or had closed their airports then flight cancellations were inevitable.
Although less streamlined than our Auckland airport experience, efforts had been made to keep people apart as much as physically possible in the queue we were in.
We hadn't appreciated at first that the business class queue was separate from the economy one and much shorter so when we eventually joined it everyone else in that queue had already gone through.
The only delay we had at that point was getting through security which was only allowing one family group through at a time and conveyer belts were sanitised regularly while people waited.
All airport staff wore masks and gloves and all passengers were urged to wear masks or face coverings at all times.
We were very impressed at the care and efficiency of the Sydney airport staff that day and how quickly they had managed to put systems in place in those terminals in an attempt to keep passengers and staff as safe as possible.
We had also put on our masks and latex gloves prior to entering the terminal that day as we were not sure what the airport protocols would be at that time.
Once we cleared security we thought it would be good to have a hot drink and a sandwich as we had not eaten anything since breakfast.
But when we walked through we found that all bars, cafés and restaurants were closed.
The main perfume and alcohol duty free outlets also appeared to be closed as were all the usual designer boutiques and tourist gift shops.
It was desolate and disconcerting.
A veritable Ghost Town.
We were pleased we were travelling light as there were also very few places to sit and certainly no tables to sit at with a cup of tea and a sandwich.
It's only when we walked around the corner to the toilets that we spotted an Australian speciality store which was still open and selling everything on display with discounts of 70% or more.
I bought two tins of biscuits reduced from $17.50 to $3.50 and several large bars of Haig's chocolate in a variety of flavours all being sold for $1.
I also bought a baby grower and toy kangaroos for friends' children, a tin of chocolate covered macadamia nuts and Tim Tam gift packs all at a fraction of their original cost.
When I went to the till to pay for my purchases, I started chatting with the sales assistant and discovered that once everything had been sold the store would close its doors just as the others had done.
It was a worrying time for businesses everywhere.
It wasn't long after my impromptu shopping expedition that our gate was announced.
It was while we were walking to the gate that we spotted the same hot sandwich stall where we had bought our excellent steak sandwiches when we set off for Christchurch just over a month earlier; much to our surprise it was actually open.
The tables and chairs had been removed but the sandwiches could be purchased as takeaways.
We had enjoyed our previous steak sandwiches so much that we decided to buy them again on that day.
We then packed them into our backpack and pressed on to the gate.
The boarding process was extremely efficient.
Business Class passengers were boarded first and social distancing was a priority at all times throughout that process.
I don't know if it was due to social distancing or just the fact that we were travelling back in business class but it was the easiest, less cluttered aircraft boarding experience we had ever had.
We were shown to our lovely, spacious seats where we had excellent leg room to stretch out and personal overhead lockers which we could comfortably access at any time during our journey.
Once I had stored away all our hand luggage I used our hospital grade antibacterial wipes to clean our seats, tables, windows, mini video screens and even the contents of the complimentary toiletries we found on our seats waiting for us.
As soon as I sat down after our cleaning spree we were handed a glass of sparkling wine each and we were told we could have as many refills as we wanted; obviously we cleaned those glasses as well before drinking which our stewardess found rather amusing but later told us that she wished others took their safety as seriously as we did.
Having taken advantage of Singapore Airlines' generous offer of free refills and excellent meals and snacks on our way to Australia in December, I decided to be a little more abstemious on our return journey with Emirates.
I had felt decidedly unwell on our first full day in Australia back in December so I thought it best not to repeat that experience on our return flight.
But a glass of Barossa sparkling wine as a prequel to our excellent steak sandwich was the perfect late lunch for us that afternoon as we waited to take off.
Five Hours from Sydney to Broome
Our flight took off on time shortly after 2:30 pm that afternoon.
Having experienced a near departure in Hobart when our pilot actually taxied us to the runway, before deciding to turn back and cancel the flight, it was only when we were finally airborne that we were fully convinced that this journey back to the UK would definitely happen.
If that isn't the ultimate 'clinging at straws' thought process then I don't know what is.
Once we were airborne we looked at the Emirates flight route from Sydney to Dubai and we could see that 5 hours of our 14.59 hour journey would be spent flying over Australia.
It would take almost two hours just to clear NSW then we would fly over South Australia, Northern Territory and finally Western Australia.
Of course we weren't surprised at that anymore as we had travelled to these areas already since arriving in Australia in late December but it still highlighted how isolated cities like Sydney, Melbourne and Adelaide are in geographical terms on the world map.
It also made us wonder again, how the early settlers not to mention the Aboriginal people thousands of years earlier managed to negotiate with the sheer size of that country before motorised travel was an option.
New South Wales
When we took off we did enjoy the views of Sydney below us which we now recognised well but it didn't take long before we rose up above the clouds and all we could see below us for the following five hours were clouds and occasional glimpses of reddish, green and brown outback.
Occasionally we spotted huge chunks of woodland which had very clearly been devastated by wildfire earlier in the year.
Some of these areas appeared completely blackened to us viewing them from above.
The fact that we could see them at all was a clear indicator of exactly how much of that land had been devastated by fire during that 'Black Summer' in Australia.
As I looked down at the huge expanse of blackened woodland in New South Wales alone, I thought of all the precious wildlife that would have perished with it.
It was a sad thought which I tried not to dwell on too much at that fragile time.
At one point while we were flying over NSW, I thought I spotted the coastal area of where Byron Bay should be located.
This brought to mind our very first trip within Australia itself where we stayed in quirky Mullumbimby and managed to visit one of our younger daughter's best friends and super hospitable family in Federal.
This was a particularly special trip for us not just because it was our first and everything was new and different but also because it was the only trip our younger daughter was able to share with us.
It was also the only time that any of us spotted a koala bear in the wild high up in one of the gum trees not far from our friends' home in Federal.
What was especially noteworthy was the fact that it was our younger daughter who spotted it clearly as we drove past and she was only in Australia for two weeks.
Neither us nor our elder daughter managed to see one in the wild in all the time we were there.
Our friends told us that on very hot days a family of koalas wandered into their garden looking for water so they had taken to leaving bowls of water for them in strategic spots under trees and near their swimming pool (so they didn't fall in), which they appeared to appreciate.
As our long flight over NSW continued I also thought of our morning at Byron Bay itself and our wonderful afternoon at Simpson's Creek and Torakina Beach.
Not to mention our excellent lunch at Stone and Wood.
There were so few excursions with both our daughters before our girls left for Perth that these memories remain particularly precious to us.
Five Days in Australia
Once cruising speed had been reached and the fasten seatbelt sign had been switched off, our stewardess asked all of us in turn what we would like to drink and if we would like an afternoon snack.
We passed on the snacks but tea, coffee and a beer chaser for my husband were much appreciated.
It was at that point that I noticed that the two seats on my left were empty; in fact there were a few other empty seats in that section of the plane which did surprise me a little considering Emirates had cancelled quite a few flights that week leaving many passengers stranded.
I would have thought that those seats would have had many takers had they been made available.
It was at that point that I noticed someone pacing along the space in front of our row of seats; as she passed us she introduced herself as a fellow passenger seated in the middle section after the two free seats; she explained that she and her husband had spent so much time sitting in planes over the course of the past five days that she had to do regular exercise to avoid stiffness in her joints.
We assumed that like us, they had been travelling in Australia so I asked them where they had been.
Her response was not at all what we expected.
It appeared that they only set off for Australia from the UK five days earlier.
They were planning to spend a week in Sydney then fly to Perth where they would be spending a month with their daughter and grandchildren.
They didn't realise prior to setting off that Australia was about to close all its borders and that so little would be open anywhere in Sydney.
They tried to bring forward their trip to Perth but discovered that not only could they not do that but they wouldn't be able to fly there at all as Western Australia had already closed its borders to anyone flying in from NSW.
At that point there was still no covid in WA whereas there were by then, several clusters in NSW.
After a few frustrating days trying to decide what to do and several discussions with their daughter on the phone, it was decided that they should return to the UK as soon as possible while flights were still available so they managed to secure a return flight to the UK on Emirates on the same day we did and like us they were offered business class upgrades via email a few days later.
But unlike us they would be flying back to Heathrow from Dubai rather than Gatwick and they hadn't received an upgrade notification for that flight which they thought was quite strange especially as we had received one for ours.
I wondered at the time if that was one of the cancelled flights on the list we had been sent but decided to keep that thought to myself though I rather think they may have already considered that as a possibility.
Their trip had been a 75th birthday treat for her husband which was particularly special as their daughter had had a new baby a few months before whom they would have met her for the first time had they been able to travel to Perth.
She was a very cheerful fellow passenger, not at all self pitying or resentful just sorry that they had travelled so far for no reason at all and obviously very sad not to have met their new granddaughter.
She then asked us about our travels and explained that they had been to New Zealand themselves when they visited their daughter after her first baby was born in 2017.
Like us they loved Queenstown, the Mirror Lakes and the Milford Sound ferry trip which we agreed was totally mesmerising.
They didn't travel to North Island on that trip but she said they would definitely go back there at some point; she loved the idea of the Picton crossing with a hire car, after touring several of the Marlborough vineyards of course; I certainly recommended that as a possible future tour when they managed to visit the Southern Hemisphere again.
Before she returned to her seat our new friend told us that they had agreed with their daughter that they would return in a few months time "when it had all blown over".
That sounded perfectly feasible to me at that time.
Although deep down inside I think I knew this would take years rather than months to 'blow over', we were all more than happy to believe that life would be back to normal soon back then - as of course we still are now over 15 months later
Victoria on our left, NSW on our right
I had thoroughly enjoyed my impromptu chat with my new friend; we agreed that we would meet up later and do some stretches to protect our fragile joints and lower backs.
When she returned to her seat I looked at our flight path on my personal screen and I could see that as we were approaching the NSW / South Australia border we were flying very close to the boundary with Victoria.
In fact for those final few minutes before entering South Australia, we appeared to have had Victoria on our left and NSW on our right.
All we could see below us was outback of course; huge expanses of brown / green woodland with occasional stretches of blackened areas devastated by wildfires just a few weeks before.
Our travels in Victoria with our UK friend had been extraordinary.
Our road trip along the Great Ocean Road must rate as one of the best driving experiences of our lives.
This was followed by our wonderful few days in Melbourne where we met up with my former colleague for lunch, travelled all over the city on foot and on the free City Circle tramline and indulged in authentic aboriginal 'tucker' before 'walking the block' around the stylish Victorian buildings and monuments near Flinders street station.
All experiences dear to our hearts which we will treasure forever and which we dearly hope we will be able to revisit one day in the not too distant future.
South Australia
Before we knew it we had crossed over into South Australia.
As we distanced ourselves further from NSW and Victoria the outback below us started acquiring more brown/red tones than green ones.
It looked dryer and more arid the deeper we flew into it.
It was in South Australia that we had experienced heat such as we had never seen before anywhere not just in Australia.
On the one full day we were in Adelaide we lived through soaring temperatures that in some areas reached the low 50s.
Weather warnings had been announced the evening before urging people to stay at home and not to venture out in it especially as car engines, mobile telephones, computers may not be able to cope with it, so people could find themselves stranded in isolated locations with no means of being able to ask for help.
As it was our only full day there we did go out but we were very careful.
We managed to discover Adelaide's excellent indoor market, its beautifully air conditioned indoor wine centre in the Botanical Garden where we could enjoy the views whilst sipping excellent wines in opulently cool luxury.
We also spent an afternoon at the seaside in Glenelg and a wonderful evening with friends enjoying a excellent meal and learning all about acquaponics whilst being shown around their very productive garden.
Since writing my entry on this several months ago, those same friends moved from Glenelg to a farm location further out in the SA countryside.
They now have a large Australian farmhouse, acres and acres of farmland, sheep, cows and quite a few resident kangaroos.
Aquaponics will feature greatly in their venture to introduce sustainable farming to the region and in time they plan to run sustainable farming holidays and / or tutorials online.
As soon as that has been set up I will post details of it on this site for anyone who should wish to find out more.
But our memories of SA extend far beyond Adelaide.
Our few days in the Barossa valley sampling some of the finest wines in the world was wonderful as was the first part of our 7 day road trip which started in SA and ended in Melbourne.
We will treasure those memories forever and we look forward to returning there at some point in the not too distant future.
Dining over the Northern Territory
With everything we had to deal with over the course of the previous few weeks, I had managed to fall very behind with my work, so I had no choice but to use the journey as an opportune moment to catch up as much as I could; my deadline for that particular assignment was Friday so I spent most of our time flying over SA at my lap top.
It was just before dinner was served that I decided to put the lap top away and have a short break.
I hadn't looked out of the window for a while so when I glanced down at that moment I realised that we could only be flying over the Northern Territory.
When I looked at the map on my screen I could see that our time flying over NT would be brief but I was in no doubt that we were flying over it then.
We had flown from Sydney to the NT in January so we were all too familiar with the deep red tones of the Australian desert.
That trip to what is known as the heart of Australia was for us one of the most extraordinary experiences of our lives.
I had never seen such a landscape before; it is what I always thought Mars would be like: so alien, so isolated and so very, very red.
It had been an experience like no other and one which we would remember forever.
When a particular landscape makes such a lasting impression, it is also immediately recognisable if or when it is ever seen again.
Our trip to the NT in January established a connection to that continent which I think would not have been possible without it.
As a former British colony, it is very easy for Brits to forget how far away from home Australia actually is; there is so much which for the British traveller is familiar, comforting and easy to negotiate but in that alien red heart of Australia one is suddenly and completely totally extricated from one's comfort zone.
That was our excursion to the 'real' Australia
That magical stay in the desert gave us a glimpse of how that land must have been everywhere for thousands of years, not just in the desert but long before the arrival of Captain Cook and the British colonisation of Australasia.
Against all the odds we managed to travel to every state in Australia after that where we visited beautiful cities and stunning natural wonders which we would remember forever but it was that trip to the NT that brought home the fact that this was a very foreign land on the other side of the world which colonisers may have settled and adapted to suit customs and lifestyles from back home but its heart and its spirit remained intact, untamed and so completely different from anything or anywhere back in the 'old country'.
The indigenous population, the Aboriginal people who have been there for over 50,000 years have established a profound link with that land which modern 'civilisation' could not eradicate.
The early settlers had certainly tried to do that, after all that is what colonisation is, but even now, 300 years later, few believe it to have been successful.
I am certainly not an expert on Aboriginal history or culture but what I learnt on that short trip to the desert is that adapting to a way of life and culture which was totally at odds with everything they knew to be true, real and right continues to impede integration with western values even now in 2021.
After the extraordinary 18 months we have all lived through since January 2020, who is to say that theirs is not the right way after all?
There could come a time when we may rely on the lessons these ancient cultures can teach us.
We now talk of sustainability, of not exploiting our natural resources but assisting in their regeneration.
This is particularly significant in Australia after the worst summer of wildfire in its recent history.
The Aboriginal people of Australia and other indigenous civilisations in various locations of our increasingly troubled world, have been living in harmony with the natural world for centuries, if that isn't sustainability then I really do not know what is.